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		I have been using an incident meter with my old Rolleiflex, but a lot of my exposures are overexposed.  Surprise!  Now I understand that this is because I took the incident reading at face value.  But, I'm having trouble figuring out how to use the incident meter more effectively.  Obviously, since this is roll film, I can't give each frame its own development time. But I want to at least get the exposures right.  What would be the best way to do this?  If I'm standing on a road in the shade, say, under some trees, and I take a reading, should I change the ISO to twice normal (that is, underexpose one stop)? And if I'm standing in bright sunlight, should I do the opposite?
  --shannon   |  
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