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I made the mistake before of using ISO 400 when measuring, but thanks to this forum I discovered that I should always use ISO 100 to measure, and let the palm make the compensation based on the film I am using.
Phil Said:
" The other question is your closeup calculation. If you're using a 320mm (12.6 inch) lens and measuring a total bellows length of 12-14 inches you're not very close to the subject. If what you measured is in addition to the focal length (total lens-too-film distance about 25 inches, then the bellows factor is about 2 stops and you're shooting the orchid at about life size."
You are dead on here, I rechecked tonight to see how extended I was an in fact my wiser 4x5 was extended all the way just beyond the teeth of the focusing rail. I am at live size there for sure. But if I am putting in those numbers in the Palm, should it not correctly compensate?
At this point, I am convinced it's my poor metering method, I've struggled with it since I started using the BTZS method. I'm getting better, but I'm not getting what I want. Let me ask you this:
If in closeup situations I am having a hard time using the incidence meter to determine what I want out of a pic, could I not use a spot meter in some situations? Wouldn't the palm do all the measurements for me? I haven't used my spot meter in a couple of years, after you encouraged me to try incidence metering, but it seems in closeup situations, you want to pop the white up. I was thinking if I measured the orchid's petal with the spot meter and placed that at zone 8, and measured the inside and placed that at zone 6, wouldn't the palm compensate and understand what I am trying to do, or am I shooting (no pun intended) myself in the foot?
The issue here is that measuring normal scenes with sun and shadow is not a problem, it's really easy, and I've got that part of incidence metering nailed. It's when it comes to some of the closeup work, or cloudy crummy days, where there is a lot less natural contrast that I start getting into real trouble. Sometimes I want to pop the contrast up on the image for more appeal, and not just expose the film to represent exactly what is there, resulting in a drab image (much like the true weather conditions are)
Am I explaining myself a little better?
Thanks
R
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