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So I almost solved this.
As it turns out there is a focusing switch on the Zone VI light control unit that when on, turns on both tubes at full brightness. This is considerably brighter than it is when using it for printing under the timer control. The problem is you cannot control the unit with a timer this way. When the switch is on, both tubes are always on. But it turns out that if you remove the enlarger lens and temporarily remove the light source you can drop in a Wisner lens board into the bellows and it will rest on the plate that the lens attaches to. It fits so well it almost completely seals off any light leaks. What’s left can probably be masked off with tinfoil and tape.
I have two camera lenses here, my 115mm and my 210mm. With the 210mm it seems in order to get it focused I have to have the enlarger too high to get an EV 4 reading. With the 115mm it is a little to low as the focused area of light is only about 8" across. This is all at f8. When metering across the areas I can detect uneven light when its this low.
I think this will be the way to go though if I can get it to work. My current thinking is that I may just pick a unfocused focusing point that yields the right size of area and brightness and then note both the enlarger height and focusing point for future test so I can repeat it. Given that there is nothing but Plexiglas on the light source end of the head there isn't much to focus anyway. The light seems pretty even on the surface of that Plexiglas since the tubes completely cover it. This also eliminates the light compensating enlarger timer from the equation as I would just be able to use my lens shutter.
Either that or I will be building a new light head for my enlarger which actually shouldn't be too hard. I'm betting I could fashion something out of some Plexiglas and some light bulbs that would be brighter than my cold-light head and do the trick.
David
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